I love the feel of this place. First and foremost, it is small. You have to push your way through tables and people just to get to the restroom. The fact that the employees squeeze themselves into this cramped space, limited in nearly every sense of the word, and yet are still able to turn out wonderful dishes that surprise you, make you close your eyes and really say "mmm" is a remarkable feat. It shows that the proprietors really love what they do. This tiny restaurant allows chef-owner Mike Stollenwerk the freedom to create mouth watering dishes that leave us wanting more. Followers willingly wait their turn for a reservation and pack together in the restaurant, eager to try his creations. Nothing describes the Philadelphia dining scene better than grabbing a bottle of wine, walking around the corner to your favorite BYO, and dining casually in a cozy yet classy restaurant, all the while enjoying delicious food with good company. Little Fish is the epitome of what a Philadelphia restaurant is today.
Upon entering, we were greeted by one of the pleasantly eclectic servers. The handwritten menu was presented on a charming strip of cardstock (and also posted on the wall for those who prefer to gaze across the room to test their 20/20 vision). After we ordered our appetizers the journey began. We received a slice of warm bread. It was dense and chewy. Normally, I prefer my bread a bit crustier. However, the combination of the warm soft interior was the perfect vessel for sopping up the fresh and vibrant dipping sauce of parsley, garlic, lemon and olive oil. This simple start was enough to get my mouth watering.
It was time for our appetizers. I started with the Maine scallops which were beautifully centered on the plate. They had a perfectly crisp sear on the outside with a tender and sweet center that practically melted in my mouth. Crunchy and salty marcona almonds intensified the sear on the scallop while the sweet orange segments played nicely off its succulence. The mache provided a little bite of lightness to round out the dish. I think there was a drizzle of some sort of sauce, but there was so little I couldn't really tell. Although I wouldn't have minded more of a presence in a sauce, I didn't really miss it. I give it an A. Next, we had the Peekytoe crab. The crab 'salad' was wrapped like a package in a single thinly sliced cucumber. Inside, the crab mixed with the flesh of the creamy avocado, the fresh cucumber, chives, and sharp crunchy julienned radishes. The creamy avocado heightened the sweetness of the crab while the radishes gave it a nice contrast. This was a more subtle dish but still as elegant and indulgent as the first: A-.
For my entree I had the Halibut. The fish had a nice crust but unfortunately I found it to be slightly dry and over salted. I would have been disappointed, but the other elements of the dish were really the star. It was served with light as air, pillowy gnocchi, crisp yet sweet fava beans, plump and tender chanterelles and the most delicious, buttery, creamy truffle sauce I have ever tasted. The sauce with the gnocchi could have been a dish on its own. I could eat this every night and still never grow tired of it. The richness of the mushrooms, with the tantalizing crunch of the vegetable and luxury of the truffle were exquisite: A. My husband had the Suzuki, a fish neither of us had ever tried before. The fish was perfectly cooked with a crispy skin and light flesh. The flavor was similar to a striped bass. It was served on a bed of tender fingerling potatoes, spicy merguez sausage, and wild little neck clams in a red pepper sauce. This sauce was light yet carried out the spices of chili and paprika from the sausage. It added a vibrant red color to the dish that reminded me of a bouillabaisse. The heat from the sausage was a nice contrast to the light flavor of the fish and was delicate enough not to overpower it. While my dish was full of rich flavors, this one was showed another side of the chef with a spicy-light note. It is nice to see both ends of the spectrum at one meal: A.
Since I am a pastry chef, I normally do not order dessert, especially at BYOs. I find that dessert is an unfortunate after thought at many places. I generally avoid it in an attempt to save myself from the almost guaranteed disappointment at the end of a good meal. While I was not blown away by the dessert menu options (creme brulee, cake, panna cotta) or flavors (coffee, vanilla, lemon, chocolate) we did decide to share the chocolate truffle torte. I have to admit that despite any sort of innovation here, it was surprisingly satisfying. The torte was slightly warmed. The cake was moist and smothered in a rich ganache. It was served with raspberry sauce and fresh raspberries. While I am not a chocoholic, it did leave me wanting to lick every last bit of gooey chocolaty-ness from the plate.
This meal, like each one that I have enjoyed here, was marvelous. And while it was not inexpensive (appetizers around $13, entrees around $27, and desserts $7) it is a BYO which saves a few bucks. The total meal with tax was around $100, which for me means it is not an everyday restaurant. However, this is still a bargain for this caliber of meal, especially when you consider that similarly rated restaurants are upwards of twice the cost. Every meal here is a memorable treat for the senses, sure to please even the most discriminating palates.
Overall: A
Little Fish
600 Catherine st.
Philadelphia, PA
215-413-3464
No comments:
Post a Comment